Gault&Millau: Mahala 12/20

Mahala is a modern Romanian restaurant, a concept which applies not only to the menu but also to the design. The textiles on the banquettes are traditional, but combined in a surprising patchwork that works. The menu offers a selection of dishes that surprise either because of interesting techniques that have been applied to them (such as turbot with smashed potatoes and Romanian black truffle mousse), or because they are contemporary adaptations of Romanian recipes (e.g. zucchini flowers stuffed with aged ricotta and olive sauce). Seasonality is not a strong point, but there is an obvious theme in the menu – a modern Romanian cuisine with quality ingredients and above average execution.


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